Kim Hakhee
Social Studies Education Department, Gyeongin National University of Education
This paper shows where Thai food is consumed in London and how the image of Thailand is constructed through Thai restaurants. Participant observation in Thai restaurants, mainly located in London, was undertaken to explore the ‘staged authenticity’ of Thai food and the dynamics of foodways in the British context. Thai restaurants attempt to appeal to what they perceive to be their customers’ desires through promoting exotic and chic culinary experiences based on the imaginations of their aspiring customers. Thai cuisine has succeeded in gaining an image of being a healthy food. It has also succeeded in catering to the taste buds of diverse customers including vegetarians. However, Thai restaurants in London often offer a self-contradictory menu, claiming authenticity on one hand, but adapting to the British standards of culinary acceptability on the other. Thai-ness and ‘Royal Thai’ cultures are performed and consumed through the ambience of the restaurants as well as through the food itself. These restaurants try to create a sense of authenticity by using native artwork, decorations, wall patterns, and staff uniforms. Woodcarvings decorated with golden-colored materials, antique-styled sculptures of elephants or Thai women with hands pressed together in a welcoming wai pose are often installed to create an atmosphere of Thai-ness. Traditional Thai crafts, silk tableware and oriental serving bowls are used to contribute to the image of ‘Royal Thai’ culture beyond food. Thai restaurants in London make full use of the geographical imaginations in the age of the British Empire by provoking a nostalgic sentiment of the majestic dynasty and the colonial ties with the region.
(Presented in the International Conference – Thai Food Heritage: Local to Global, 4-6 August 2009, Tawana Bangkok Hotel, Bangkok, organized by The Project of Empowering Network for International Thai Studies (ENITS), Institute of Thai Studies, Chulalongkorn University with support from the Thailand Research Fund (TRF))